by Fabrizio Borriello - 03/01/22
NOT ALL STORIES START FROM THE BEGINNING
REUSE, REPAIR, RESUME
On December 19, 2021, the second appointment of the Degli Uberti’s format was held: Good Practice.
The day was completely dedicated to Denim, more precisely, to Jeans.
Daniele de Biase, founder of the emerging brand Apnea, and lover of this fabric, was asked to explain its origins and some patching techniques.
Denim is a fabric that is about a century old, disputed in its origins between Italy and France.
The name Blue Jeans derives from the French term 'Blue de Gênes', which translated means "Blue of Genoa".
Genoa was the port city where denim clothes were used as protection for maritime transport but, in reality, denim was probably first produced in Chieri, near Turin.
Daniele explained that the Jeans product can be divided into four macro-categories:
- The Raw Jeans;
- The Washed Jeans;
- Natural Aging Jeans (invented by Daniele himself);
- The Vintage Jeans.
This Work-Shop featured the last category, the vintage one.
It could be considered a category of waste products but, in reality, it is precisely that waste that allows us to carry on the world of archival products.
Each tear, each color change, tells, in his own way, an event, a story of who wore that jeans.And it is thanks to the patching techniques that Daniele explained during the event, that we are able to pass on these stories over time.
Degli Uberti has therefore decided to give all participants of the event a high-quality Vintage Jeans, patched by Daniele.
There are two main patching techniques:
Machine repairs, where, through the use of any sewing machine, by tapping along different directions on the patch, which has been positioned precisely with the aim of repairing the tear, it is possible to obtain a high quality
result and with a good yield;
Hand repairs, such as Japanese ones (known as boron or sashiko), handed downin tradition, which work through a dense network of points that pass between the inside and the outside of the trousers, just like the machine, but in a very more precise and detailed (very often also following geometric patterns).